In what could only be described as fashion’s most elegant exit strategy, Lucie and Luke Meier delivered their swan song at Jil Sander yesterday—a collection that reminded us why their eight-year tenure has been one of quiet revolution rather than noisy disruption.
Unlike the dramatic departures that have become fashion’s favorite spectator sport, there was no backstage drama, no industry whispers of discord. Instead, there was an atmosphere of dignified completion—the satisfaction of artists who know they’ve honored their canvas.
The collection began as a meditation in black—eight distinct iterations that explored the color’s dimensional possibilities. A topless dress with kinetic fringes opened, giving way to a woolen turtleneck paired with a belted skirt in the same tactile material that has become a Meier signature. The message was clear: minimalism needn’t be a creative constraint.
When color finally emerged, it arrived with purpose rather than fanfare. The Meiers have always understood that restraint amplifies impact—a philosophy evident in each silhouette. Sequined embellishments, deliberately distressed wool edges, and studded footwear demonstrates their particular genius: a minimalism with both depth and fun.
The collection balanced precise romanticism with moments of calculated edge. Leather appeared throughout—most notably in a grey two-piece that managed to be both severe and sensual, and in blazer-cut biker jackets paired with skirts for women and trousers for men.
What made this collection particularly poignant was its nature as an anthology of the Meiers’ greatest hits: the exceptional shirting that redefined proportion, ethereal A-line dresses, architectural coats now elevated with fur collars, and their signature subversive florals—this season rendered in an ombré effect that melted into deep black, as if symbolizing their own graceful fade from the house.
As the final model disappeared behind the black curtains, one couldn’t help but feel that this wasn’t merely a collection but a masterclass in leaving well—with purpose, and the confidence to let your work speak its own eloquent goodbye.
