To understand what beauty is for the Japanese you have to think of Ikebana, the ancient art of flowers. A ritual, such as calligraphy, the study of literary compositions and poetry, which the Zen masters have transfigured into a religious experience of reflection and illumination, in a way to guide the mind towards the absolute. The obsession of a people full of contradictions and contrasts, which with devotion to the past combines a vision that anticipates the future. Where manual treatments coexist with hyper-technological and sophisticated tools that try to reproduce the salons’ protocols at home. Transforming aesthetics, and the splendor of the face, from theory to practice. As for an Ikebana, as in a Buddhist prayer turn it into something sacred.
Although it was Akemi’s Kimono collection which first intrigued Emily, it was her story that really captivated the photographer. Beyond a study of her impressive hoard of traditional Japanese robes, Akemi’s 100 Kimonos is a celebration of a “determined and passionate” 60-year old woman who fled her country to live somewhere where her daughter could express herself.
Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, many say, but if beauty was subjective the concept of beauty and ugliness would not even exist. The fact that one speaks about beau- ty and ugliness is already in itself the negation of subjectivity. Have you ever stopped to think about the topic of objective beauty? What is your point of view about it?
I think beauty has both a subjective and objective side. I think that, as humans, our judgment is a complicated mixture of genetic, cultural and objective factors. The standards of female beauty have gone through many drastic changes over the last hundred years. I think our knowledge of objective beauty is still primitive.
Japan makes beauty a whole between mind, body and spirit. Your project pays tribute to a wonderful woman, originally from Japan, named Akemi. How did you get in touch with her? What fascinated you about her person and what did you want to communicate through these images?
I found out about Akemi online, as I was interested in learning more about Japanese culture. I found this wonderful lady with a Kimono collection of over 100 pieces. I was so fascinated I had to meet her and see her beautiful wardrobe. When I met Akemi, I realized that her collection represents much more than her love for Kimonos. It is her way of connecting to her family and home, a place she was deeply attached to but left behind. Akemi felt unsafe in Japan as she received a lot of unwanted male attention.
Nowadays, with technology, programs to modify images and social networks, everyo- ne is able to change their appearance. In your opinion, how have the canons of beau- ty changed over the years? How could there be a return to objective beauty?
The idea of beauty seems to be slowly shifting. The models being used in campaigns are becoming much more diverse in age, size, ethnicity and sexual orientation. At last the media seem to be starting to reflect the modern diversity that exists.
What is truly beautiful? Don’t think about it too much, reply by instinct.
I think anything can look truly beautiful when bathed in warm light.
