Inspired by Chuxiong Yi Embroidery, Ji Cheng’s 2024 Spring/Summer women’s collection draws from the captivating landscapes of Yunnan’s Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, a region where splendid scenery flourishes in its geography, waters, and wildlife. This mysterious corner of the East has given birth to the enigmatic legend of Yi Embroidery, which traces back to 1700 years ago. This season, Ji Cheng draws inspiration from Yi Embroidery’s reverence for natural totems, infusing elements like tigers, seeds, and blossoms. By merging this ancient Eastern embroidery craft with exquisite Italian textiles, a distinctive blend of Eastern and Western handcrafts comes to life, inviting you to explore the marriage of cultures. The intricate dance of embroidered threads, the interplay of stitches, and the shifting colors reflect the harmony of clouds. Ji Cheng masterfully employs Yi Embroidery elements, combining silver accessories with modern laser-cut techniques, presenting an elegant, versatile, and captivating collection that exudes Eastern charm and style.

C41: What’s the inspiration behind the collection you’ve presented at the Milan Fashion Week SS24?

Ji Cheng: The collection shows the designer’s personality and identity. I come from China but I studied at Marangoni 20 years ago. Therefore, I’ve always been drawn to mix Western and Eastern aesthetics. For my ready-to-wear collections, I want to create garments that every woman can wear despite their provenience, age, and skin colour. Specifically, for this collection presented at the Milan Fashion Week SS24, I’ve worked with the Yunnan Chuxiong Yi Embroidery after a previous collaboration in 2019 during the Shanghai Fashion Week. At that time I was inspired by blue dyes and denim, while this time I aimed to create something more glamourous and luxurious. Also, I wanted to create garments featuring embroidery of Yi ethnic group from Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture of southwest China’s Yunnan Province. Their handcraft can perfectly match with the contemporary style.

C41: What do you believe is the relevance of supporting a heritage embroidery technique such us the Yi ethnic group one?

JC: Well, all designers support their own culture in a way. As a Chinese designer, I believe our culture bridges art and ready-to-wear. Traditional embroidery might deceive and make believe a certain garment is not suited for the urban context, but truly they are delicate and handcrafted reminding of a specific tradition and ancient arts. The contemporary mixed with the traditional is a powerful language.

C41: Is this your first time participating in the Milan Fashion Week?

CJ: Yes! I did a show in London about 10 years ago as an emerging designer. Milan is definitely a more mature stage where we came to show our confidence, and we hope we were able to convey the message.

C41: Is this your first time visiting Milan? What are your current impressions and feelings about this city?

Li Wenjuan: Yes, this is my first time in Milan. Milan is a city with a rich history and a warm culture. Especially during Milan Fashion Week, after arriving in Milan, we felt the city’s blend of tradition and modern fashion, its openness, and inclusivity. Being the world’s fashion capital, Milan has allowed our clothing and embroidery to gradually reach a global audience. It’s a very fashionable city.

C41 We are C41 Magazine, a magazine based in Milan. Our target audience is mostly Europeans. Could you briefly introduce Yunnan Chuxiong to our magazine’s readers and highlight its unique local culture?

LW: Chuxiong, is known as the hometown of dinosaurs in the world. We have unearthed the most dinosaur relics in the world, and we are also the hometown of Yuanmou Man who lived 1.7 million years ago, where the fossils of Yuanmou Man were found. That’s why we are called the homeland of Eastern humanity. We are also known for being the home of the green peacock; China has over 600 green peacocks, and we have over 300 of them. Chuxiong is also an autonomous prefecture of the Yi ethnic group. Yi culture, as a part of Chinese traditional culture, has a very long history. Chuxiong Yi embroidery has a history of over 1,700 years. We have the world’s oldest T-stage in Zizuo Village, Yongren, a rural T-stage with over 1,350 years of history, known as the oldest T-stage in the world.

C41: Could you please tell us more about local Yi embroidery?

LW: Chuxiong Yi embroidery is known for its vibrant colors and more than seventy stitching techniques. For generations, Yi people have been learning embroidery from a very young age. Chuxiong Yi embroidery is often referred to as “wearable art.” Over the years, the intangible cultural heritage of Yi embroidery has been well preserved by the inheritors. In recent years, with the support of the government, our 60,000 female embroiderers have gradually improved their income and status through the Yi embroidery industry. This has allowed more children to experience a life where they can embroider while taking care of their families.

C41: How do you perceive the similarities and differences between Shanghai and Milan in fashion?

Zhu Weiming: These two cities are very similar, both being beautiful and culturally rich. Of course, Milan has a longer history. Compared to Milan, Shanghai is a relatively emerging city. However, both cities are considered as one of the world’s top five fashion capitals in the future, being the most fashionable, outstanding, and beautiful cities. I believe that in the near future, Shanghai will become a city that young people in the global fashion industry are eager to go to, just like Milan.

C41: How do you view the connection and synergy between Chinese intangible cultural heritage and contemporary fashion in China?

ZW: China is a country with a history of 5,000 years, and within this country, we have a lot of intangible cultural heritage. We hope to creatively develop and innovatively transform our heritage in a way that combines fashion with contemporary popular culture so that our intangible cultural heritage is embraced by more young people. Therefore, we have invited highly talented Chinese designers to engage in re-creation and upgrading, allowing Chinese intangible cultural heritage to reach a global audience.

C41: How does Shanghai Fashion Week currently serve as a platform, connecting designs and assisting in the integration of renowned designers with projects related to intangible cultural heritage?

ZW: The Shanghai Fashion Week has experienced rapid development in the past 20 years and now hosts nearly 200 fashion shows annually. Given this scale, many outstanding Chinese designers are willing to showcase their talents on this platform. They express their understanding of fashion and contemporary culture through clothing language. In recent years, Shanghai Fashion Week has indeed developed rapidly. I believe in the future, our fashion weeks will progress hand in hand globally, propelling the global fashion industry to new heights demonstrating greater platform value, and playing a greater guiding role. Therefore, Shanghai Fashion Week will undoubtedly attract more young people to aspire to it and connect with their favorite designers. It will also enable more Chinese fashion designers to reach various beautiful fashion capitals around the world.

Ji Cheng’s SS 2024 collection was presented at Dimora del Magenta on September 23, 2023. 

A graduate of Milan’s renowned Marangoni Institute, Ji Cheng is among the pioneering Chinese designers who champion sustainable fashion and merge traditional Eastern beauty with modern innovation. Guided by her distinct design philosophy, her warm, pragmatic aesthetics lead the fashion realm, while her exploration of the fusion between Eastern traditions and contemporary trends demonstrates China’s fashion ascendancy and limitless potential for innovation. Join us to witness the fusion of cultures and the infinite possibilities of innovation.

Li Wenjuan is the Honorary Chairwoman of Yunnan Chuxiong Prefectural Federation of Social Science Circles.

Zhu Weiming is the Executive Director of SHANGHAITEX Fashion Company.