Milan, with its storied reputation for fashion and design, can be a master of subterfuge. One might anticipate an immediate immersion in glamor upon disembarking at Linate, but this city reveals its treasures selectively. The true essence of Milan’s sartorial and design brilliance, along with its hottest dinner parties, is often concealed behind the unassuming facades of its discreet palazzos. Here, discovery is reserved for those who know where to look; just like it happened this Sunday at Prada.

Inside the show’s venue, a white wooden house was pinned high in the corner of the room. From within its walls, techno music pulsated and a kaleidoscope of lights flashed, leaving onlookers to speculate about the happenings inside. Could this be the start of an exclusive afterparty? One of those Prada rarely stages? As lights went up, models emerged through the door and down a ramp towards the crowd, unveiling a collection in which nothing was what it seemed.

The trompe l’oeil motif made a subtle entrance, with Ms. Prada’s signature faux wrinkles adorning wollen trousers. This illusion extended across cardigans and full suits. On classic polos and v-necks, collars appeared to be seamlessly sublimated into the knitwear, creating a cohesive piece that defied appearances. For this part, belts were also printed hip-high on nearly every trouser, lending the men a striking hourglass silhouette as they sauntered down the runway.

There was an important element of time in this collection, as Ms. Prada and Raf Simons wanted us to take time to look not only at their playful details, but also at the thought put into the construction of the garments. Shrunken sleeves and hems spoke about the effect of time passing, when we outgrow our garments, or as we ourselves shrink as we get older.

Time played a pivotal role in this collection by Ms. Prada and Raf Simons, urging us to pause and appreciate not just the playful details but also the meticulous construction of each garment. The deliberate choice of shrunken sleeves and hems resonated with the passage of time, evoking the inevitable changes in how we relate to our clothing as we grow older — whether through outgrowing garments or experiencing a physical shrinking as we age.

At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno opted for a more tangible interpretation of his inspirations, centered on themes like “freedom,” as noted in his show notes, and fostering a sense of “welcome” through his clothing. In achieving this vision, Mr. De Sarno successfully crafted a collection that seamlessly transitioned from the runway to the individuals he aimed to outfit.

Short shorts returned to the Gucci moodboard, this time buckled and belted with reinterpretations of the iconic horsebit that the house has been flirting with since the arrival of Sabato. Jackets were some cut to the waist, allowing for a lengthy leg visual. Although hems at Gucci seem to remain short, they’re never bulgar––it’s always a balance between show here, but hide there.

Illusions permeated the collection through inventive details such as utility jackets featuring embossed leather corduroy-like collars. The color palette spanned from jet blacks to soft pastels, enhanced by paillettes that cleverly created stripe illusions on long-sleeved polos.

Gucci’s Spring – Summer 2025 collection wouldn’t have De Sarno’s signature without an array of coats, which by now the designer has proved skilled at cutting. This was evident from the opening look: a green leather down coat with pockets strategically repositioned at rib height. On the runway, the model’s deliberate use of the pockets added a touch of theatrical flair, highlighting the collection’s dramatic yet fresh appeal.