An early awakening in Paris will give you the chance to listen to birds chirping, and if you’re fortunate, their song will be accompanied by the scenography of a mysterious fog. A countryman at heart, and supposing him to be an early riser, Dries Van Noten is no stranger to this Parisian phenomenon. He decided to incorporate these elements into his AW24 show, with birdsong playing in a raw, under-construction building. Fuchsia lights illuminated the thick smoke that permeated through a large hole in the structure, revealing a crater-like view into the other floors.

Delving into the narrative of construction, a first model emerged from within the walls in an intricately pieced double-breasted beige coat. The sleeves fractionated with seams, hems arriving just before the wrist. The pace of the walk indicated care. At a Dries show, sartorial contradictions are expected––hence such sobriety hit strange––yet a second look marked a rupture; and nature followed its course. Embracing the spontaneity that characterises Van Noten’s styling and design, a cotton hoodie hung partly worn, with a sleeve wrapped around the neck like a scarf, work with a set of satin shorts, burgundy leather boots and a maxi t-shirt.

Dries Van Noten cited in his collection notes a woman that “dares to cut her own fringe,” and this spirit of effervescence and boldness was conveyed through visually monumental volumes; malleable shapes contrasting the crisp tailoring of down coats and parkas, while soft fur textures were set against sturdy gabardine-like bomber jackets. Dries orchestrated a harmonious tête-à-tête between chaos and softness, wherein stretchy dresses were skilfully cut on the bias and draped around hips, bust, and waist, while shoulders were accentuated and dissected via pin tucks in jackets presented in wool, cotton or fur.

Consider Dries Van Noten as a designer who fearlessly dares creativity, and will constantly––yet still unexpectedly––deliver such things as maximized houndstooth prints in the same ecosystem of a windowpane, or a checked jacket with sequined sleeves. The ensembles shown at the construction site may be a metaphor for how the collection and the overall label relies on the contrasts between raw and perfectly crafted. Dries has a knack for making the seemingly unthinkable, even legally unwearable, harmoniously coexist. This is Dries’ world, and we’re just living and wearing it.