Jil Sander, a vanguard of minimalist style, the cookie cutter “clean girl” of the design world, took a strikingly vivid departure from the norm for their Spring/Summer 2025 collection. In a bold move, design duo Luke and Lucie Meier continued their exploration beyond the brand’s signature sharp lines and neutral palette, embracing a richer and more subversive visual narrative.

This season the Meiers were informed by the work of Canadian photographer Greg Girard, presenting a series of printed pieces brandishing his work. From a countercultural era American sedan, to a grungy motel room, Girard’s imagery weaved throughout the collection. However, rather than adopting Girard’s intense hues, they opted for a muted, pastel palette that softened the edge, lending the collection an unexpected tranquillity.

Since the start of the season, runway shows and collections have repeatedly referenced the overwhelming flow of information and the algorithmic nature of our interactions—both with our devices and the world at large. The Meier’s collection was anything but short on references or information: Americana came through in pointed boots, Western tailoring, and rugged denim and leather, while religious undertones appeared in Swarovski-embellished crepe shirt gowns. This wide range of elements seemed to suggest an intention to defy algorithmic predictability, to disrupt the systematic flow of the fashion machine.

Amid the sea of information that defined this collection, one element stands out: shirting. Culturally, the shirting incorporated a variety of influences, including orientalist motifs, Americana, subtle Caribbean nods, and quintessential Jil-by-the-Maiers styles. Historically, it revisited various eras and moments, with tops referencing everything from Fortuny dress construction to military uniforms and classic tuxedo shirts.